Complex problems don’t typically deserve simple solutions, yet here is one. The problem: compared to fall, dressing men for warm weather is like pulling teeth. The solution: look at how men dress for the desert, then go from there. Rochambeau’s latest collection is a quiet “a-ha”, the kind that haunts every visit to a modern art gallery. Flowing lines, spools of fabric, and a color palette yanked away from sun-catching darks: why hasn’t anyone thought of that yet?

Rochambeau SS17 (source)

Rochambeau SS17 (source)

In truth, others have sought dunes as creative wellsprings. They just cut their absorption at color palette alone. Meanwhile, Rochambeau opts for immersion: the stand-neck tunics and embroidered vests are weapons-grade Moroccan, a tributary from the River Yves. Bold patterns spill over multiple pieces; basic garments shown in wildflower lilac are as delicate as they are masculine.

Rochambeau SS17 (source)

Rochambeau SS17 (source)

Particularly impressive was the white-and-violet cape shown over purple tunic and billowing cotton trousers: it was maharishi influence transposed to leisure wear, and, in this editor's opinion, the sultan of the show. 

Rochambeau SS17 (source)

Rochambeau SS17 (source)

Aloof artistry aside, these standouts were styled with enough traditional pieces (joggers, hoodies, even a bomber or two) to lend the young label commercial credibility. The introduction of a new avant garde Nike sneaker, styled in Bedouin hues on the feet of many models, reaffirms the presence of this positive tension between unfettered passion and product creation. More importantly, it proves its strength. But most shockingly of all, it does this all off the Fall/Winter calendar. No Novacaine required.

Rochambeau SS17 (source)

Rochambeau SS17 (source)

 

 

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